Orientation Week

Japan Summer Programme Blog

The Japan Society for the Promotion of Science (JSPS) provides opportunities for young pre and postdoctoral researchers from North America and Europe to receive an orientation on Japanese culture, research systems and to pursue research under the guidance of host researchers at Japanese universities over a 11 week period during the summer. The programme includes return flights, a generous sum to cover living costs and a domestic travel bursary.

Having made contact and discussed my research with Professor Jin Mitsugi at Keio University, associate director of the renowned Auto-ID Lab’s Japan base, I was tremendously excited after my request to visit the Lab and conduct some research under his guidance was accepted. That was only the beginning as a long application process to JSPS and the British Council was still ahead. Although 100 places are allocated to American PhD students, only 10 are allocated to the UK. I knew the application process would be difficult so I asked for help from as many people I had access to. I must give special thanks to my supervisors in England, Dr Knight and Dr Lim for reviewing many(!) versions of my research proposal, the careers advisors at Aston for helping me with my CV and written application, Paul Knobbs, Aston's post grad international placement advisor who came in with some very useful advice on the tone of the application and finally my little sister, Subs for teaching me the fundamentals of Japanese humility, in the light of two brave years as an English teacher in rural Japan. Many thanks to my friends and family also who encouraged and believed in me, I don’t possess the vocabulary that can express how much I rely on all of your support in situations where I am completely in over my head!

Right, enough of the Stilton, onwards to weird and wondrous experiences! The first week was a relatively painless introduction to Japan; an opportunity to get rid of the jet lag, be eaten alive by mosquitos, meet the JSPS fellows from other countries, learn some basic phrases, enjoy amazing food and embark on a few Japanese cultural experiences.

As we all came from various places in the world, we spent the first night in Japan in a hotel near Narita airport. It was comfortable enough, beginning with a very friendly greeting from the JSPS staff. I recognised some of my fellow British researchers and we settled down to dinner in the uneasy tiredness after a long journey, a new environment and dire chopstick skills. After dinner we mingled a little and I got talking to a civil engineer from California Tech, Trevor, about the healthcare situation in America. He seemed a little more worldly than some of the other Americans and we discussed, at length, our respective countries differences in various aspects, tales of travels, sporting interests (he was amazed at how hard the cricked ball I had bought for my host was), made fun of ourselves and each other long into the night. As I have never been to America and met very few Americans, it was interesting to get an insight form the horse’s mouth, so to speak. A good chap with good banter to boot.

The next morning we moved on to our home for the next week, Sokendai University for Graduate Studies. I had struck up an understanding with Ben, a researcher from the Open University. As conducting a PhD is a solitary experience even with the most supportive of supervisors, enrolling on a PhD at the Open University is something not to be sniffed at and speaks volumes for Ben’s self motivation, confidence and above all, talent. The concept of the Open University was lost on many of our friends from over the pond, however, we in England know how highly regarded degrees from the OU are and his research and working methods are an often touched upon topic at dinnertimes. I was delighted to know I would be rooming with Ben for the week as he was a keen sportsman, cycling over 10 miles per day and we made a pretty good team when it was time to be witty with the American contingent. The English accent was straight away over exaggerated, for the purposes of jest, by myself and Ben soon found the stiff upper lip to be a useful weapon on the field of banter. Hugh Grant and Jude Law, perhaps, have never had as much fun as we did this week.

Some key personalities for you to meet and for me not to forget:

Eli: Canadian, skier, drinker, student of British banter and a fun guy to be around. He is Canadian after all, eh. Eli spent a season in Hakuba teaching skiing and living with brits, his banter is definatly getting there and as he is Canadian, eh, he is humble, fun, loveable and worldly.

Tobias: German, proud, lets the pigs out a lot, clean energy engineer. Tobias is one of those lucky people who not only is abundantly talented but has found a use for his ability. His research on efficient use of clean energy is infinitely interesting and was one of the most discussed posters at the presentation evening. Go Tobias! We talked about football incessantly too, of course.

Rebbekah: English, UCL medic turned researcher, elegant, banterous, princess. Bex is charming and great fun to be around, speaks many languages, really opens up in conversation and wears pretty frocks. A good find.

Christiana: American, honorary Brit due to her reserved polite demeanor, Texas U student, cunning linguist. Christiana stood out from most of the American contingent as she wasn’t clamoring for attention. Ben and I took a like to her instantly as she always spoke in considered calmness, had endearingly dry wit and had us in stiches thanks her willingness to laugh at herself. A complete gem.

Lauren: American, pessimist, the personification of critical thinking. My encounter with Lauren was brief but her honesty and ability to see right through a situation was refreshing and a welcome change to being overrun by Team USA. Our conversation on the healthcare system in America, taken from the view of the normal, hard working citizen was critical but balanced. Thanks for telling it how it is Lauren.

More key players to be introduced over the coming weeks.

So now you know some of the key players lets move onto the game itself. The general schedule for each day went like this: rice, lecture from eminent scientists, rice, language lessons, more rice,  cultural experiences and then banterous chat in the lounge until bedtime.

Breakfast: All you can eat mix of cosmopolitan and Japanese dishes. Fish, cold meats, miso soup, rice, cereal, coffee and excitement for the day ahead.

Eminent Scientist Lectures: Particle Physics, History of the Japanese Language, Collaboration and History of the Koto.

Language Lessons: I was placed in the complete beginner class and was glad for it. Although I had been to Japan before, the basic phrases I knew could be counted on one of Link’s (legend of Zelda) hands. The pace of the lessons was electric and the teachers, although supportive, knew they had to get through a lot of material. It had been some time since formal language learning for me and I definitely felt the pace. Ben and I practiced together at every opportunity, combined with our willingness to try and our determination throughout the few days allowed us to just about get through.

Cultural experiences: This was my favorite part. Although the calligraphy, tea ceremony and origami were all enjoyed, the Koto, Shimasen and Flute performances were the pick of the bunch for me. The performance of the Koto, in particular, was mesmerising. You could tell, although these performances only lasted a few minutes each, they involved a lifetime of skill development, diligent understanding of the history and reason for the instrument, absolute attention to the very smallest of detail in every note and personal interpretation in artistic expression that can only be delivered after hard earned, obvious mastery. There was a standing ovation for the performers at the end and rightly so.

The Home Visit. As part of the orientation week, we all had the opportunity to live with a Japanese Family for the weekend. I was looking forward to using some of my Japanese and seeing normal, everyday, Japanese family life. I had been in touch with Keiko, the mother of the family before hand so I was not so reluctant as some of my fellows. Her English was great so it made for an easy initial greeting at Sokendai. She picked me up with her children; Mina, Akio and Shun. The first night I was told that we were going to a party with some other families. I was open to the idea but weary that my Japanese was running out by the second. When we got to the party, I took my shoes off at the door, walked into the house and was greeted by about 30 friendly faces ranging from old to rug rat staring at me. I smiled and gave a tentative “Kon Ban Wa” as everyone exploded in a better pronouced greeting with broad smiles. Stay calm Mo, the worst is over, right? After being asked to take a seat at the table, Naohiro introduced himself in an American accent and informed me that he had spent the last 4 years in an American High School. He explained some of the customs and made me feel at ease. I was very grateful of his presence and patience. Then, the man of the house came in from work and everyone went silent. He looked at me and I got up to try to introduce myself. At that moment, when I opened my mouth to speak, the cat had most definitely got the foreigner’s tongue. As most of you know, it is rare that I am speechless but the man could see that I was completely stumped. He very graciously started speaking in English and introduced himself, after letting me feel the pain of everyone’s attention for a second but what felt like an hour of torture, in relative terms. As soon as he finished his introduction, I found my voice and gave mine in Japanese. All was well. I was in my suit and sweating already in the hot, crowded front room before the man of the house came in. I was uncontrollably dripping now that my heart was in my mouth. The cat might as well have pulled that out too, such was the embarrassment.

As the evening continued, I noticed everyone and I assert, everyone, could speak excellent English. I enquired, as inoffensively as possible, to how this was so and it came to light the party was thrown by members of the Hippo Family Club (HFC). HFC is an organisation that arranges for its members to go on home placements around the world, with the purpose of language learning and cultural understanding. I was intrigued and amazed at the amount of different languages that were being spoken in the room after bringing up the topic. There were descriptions of love in French, engineering in German, dancing in Spanish, even cricket in Punjabi. The party was a welcome back shindig for a student at the university I would be attending who had just finished her placement in America. She spoke French, German, Spanish, Arabic, Korean, Mandarin and English, evidently with consumate ease. That night I became certain of something that has been lingering on my mind for some time. We live in an increasingly global society and a strong grasp of languages is no longer an impressive addition to a CV but a very basic fundamental requirement, much like GCSE’s. I couldn’t help but feel uncultured, uneducated and somewhat inferior as I sat there sweating like an ape. Something to sort out, very quickly too I should think; languages that is, I can’t do too much about the sweating.

The rest of the weekend was a mellower affair and Mina, the youngest of the family didn’t let go of my hand almost all weekend. She was so cute it was unbearable. Having cousins this age it was easy to entertain and occupy her. I think we are BFF (best friends forever) now. Result. We did some sight seeing, enjoyed amazing home cooked food and I even got a chance to go with the boys to their Chanbara Class. The samurai sword play sport is very popular with the Japanese and especially for children as it is an entry point for the more aggressive, dangerous and ritualised Kendo. Nevertheless, the class included the young, those in their prime and the old and I was very excited for the chance to participate. I was treated very well and welcomed by one and all. There was a chap about my age who was an assistant instructor there and he could see that I was trying to imitate his moves in the small breaks between sessions. He cottoned on and took the time to help me further. I felt like I was being taught by a real Samurai! He was so fast, fluid and powerful and in the later individual duels he pretty much destroyed everyone each in one, lighting fast, deadly accurate blow. His opponents could do nothing but bow and move aside for the next person after being dispatched so easily. I was placed in the beginner group. Being shredded to bits by an 8 year old is a humbling, emasculating but fun experience. The Chanbara swords are basically long beanbags with an air pocket in the middle that is filled with a bicycle pump before a class. They don’t hurt physically but being hit three times in the face before you even know it, by an 8 year old, hurts in other ways. There was one bout where the instructor explained, in her words, where I would have been cut if a real blade was being used; my right eye would have been sliced in half, my throat would be slit from ear to ear, my intestines would be behaving more like a red waterfall and my left achilles tendon would be flapping about in the wind coming from my posterior. I thought I had been hit only once. All by a lad 3 times younger than me. I was in awe of the skill, speed and intensity of the keen practitioners of this much loved, very japanese sport. As I didn’t have any shorts, it is lucky that I didn’t shit my self as I ripped my jeans at the crotch down to the knee. Of course, they didn’t laugh at me in my presence but my perception informed me that they were splitting inside. So was I to be fair.

With the kids watching the highlights of England Vs Sweden

I had the choice of a conventional umbrella but I went for a decorative one

Big Budda at Kamakura; Samurai Town

Chanbara class pre destruction of jeans

This kid slashed me to pieces, I didn't even get close

Try all I want, I will never look as cool as the japanese do.

I had grown something resembling  small girl on my hand for a weekend.

Fried and flattened octopus. Guts and all. Delicious

Easing my tension and embarrassment at the Hippo club party.

The view from our Sokendai base. 

Eli, Canadian hero and I in front of my poster!

Mina being cute as always

Anime at the bowling alley when you get a strike, of course

Automatic shoe dispensers, obviously.

Tempura. Oh yes. Itatakimas.

inside Budda

Assistant Instructor at Chanbara class after he beat the crap out of me and everyone else

Yum

Yum mark 2.0

Arty Farty except for the people in the pic.

View from Enoshima

We can hope

What an epic instrument

Masters, and still yet so young

Some of my fellow JSPSers

Cheeso!

Stay tuned for anecdotes on the final few days of orientation, more players in the game and moving to my host institution. Until then. Jaa Mata (See you soon).